Rachael Ray: yea or nay?

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Flickr: Fuzuoko

There are a couple easy ways to get a food-industry worker's blood boiling. The easiest is to talk about stingy tippers. The second, nearly as effective route, is to casually mention that Rachael Ray is a great chef.

What Billy Joel is to other musicians, what Dane Cook is to other comedians, Rachel Ray is to real chefs.
She's a half-talent at best who, through some deal-with-the-devil abilities, has become a star. A huge star with fan clubs and her own magazine. The average Joe couldn't spot America's best chef -- Grant Achatz -- out of a line-up, but Ray plops a can on the plate, puts it in the microwave and ta-da! A 30-minute meal!

Watching this nine-minute clip of Ray on Nightline two days ago, I admit it's tough not to like her. She flatly admits she's not a chef or a rocket scientist but says she's "just good at writing average, affordable meals for the American family." When Cynthia McFadden grills her on Anthony Bourdain calling her Dunkin Donut ads evil, she shrugs off the criticism. "I have tremendous respect for Tony Bourdain. It's a free country... and I have no problem with that."

This was the first time I've watched Ray in a couple of years. My first thought (besides, wow, she looks like a young Laura Bush) was, have I been too hard on Rachael Ray? I didn't know she got her start working at a struggling local specialty store, where she thought, maybe the reason people aren't buying groceries is they didn't know how to cook with them. That's a noble idea to get people into a small specialty store.

With the recession here to stay, interest in quick, simple and cheap meals is only going to increase. My feeling is that the Rachael Ray model could be easily improved on. She's made food accessible and cheap, now it's a chef's turn to make it accessible, cheap and good.
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